Miniature Concrete House Building Manual

3-Day Step-by-Step Guide

This guide will help you build your own realistic miniature concrete house. Don’t worry if you’ve never done this before — follow each step carefully, and you’ll end up with a sturdy, beautiful model.

in your box you will find:

Tools:

Spatula
Brush
Palette
Trowel
Mixing sticks
Sandpaper for plaster
Paints
Measuring cup
Glue

 

Parts:

250+ miniature bricks
Pre-assembled house frame (base)
Gray powder (for cement/mortar)
Wire mesh (reinforcement for the foundation)
White powder (for plaster)
Mixing containers
Wooden planks (for the roof)
Windows and doors set
Chimney piece

what you'll need at home:

  • Clean flat workspace
  • Protective sheet or newspaper (to protect your table)
  • Cup of water
  • Cloth or paper towels for cleaning spills

Scrool to troubleshooting guide

DAY 1: Preparation & Foundation

1. Set Up Your Workspace

Lay down a protective sheet on a sturdy table. Keep all your materials within easy reach.

2. Inspect the Frame

Check the pre-assembled base frame. Place the base with this side facing you, as shown in the picture. Make sure it’s clean and free of dust or debris. 

3. Prepare the Mortar Mix

Take the smallest container with three bags of mortar for bricks inside. Take the two bags out and pour one bag into the container. 

(With one preparation mix you can work up to 20 - 25 minutes. If you work longer than the specified time, the fixing mixture may dry out, but don't worry, just add a little water to moisten it again and continue working.)

Take your measuring cup and add 20ml of water, stirring continuously.

Mix until the mortar is smooth, without any stuck pieces.

4. Lay the First Bricks

  • Take the modeling spatula and apply concrete mortar to the bottom and one smaller side of the brick so that you can easily connect the next brick.
     
  • The average amount of mortar to apply to each brick is shown in the picture.

The gaps between the tiles should not be large, approximately 1-2 mm. After laying several bricks on the base, the mortar will spill out from the sides. Gently scrape it off the sides or top and continue using it on other bricks. This is exactly the process that bricklayers use when building houses.

5. Place the First Row

Place it carefully along the bottom edge of the frame exactly as shown

6. Build First 3 Layers

  • Add the 2nd and 3rd layers of bricks.
     
  • Stagger the bricks: place each brick in the middle of two bricks below it (like real houses).
     
  • Check alignment regularly to keep the walls straight.

7. Attach the Stairs

  1. After building three layers, you will see some space left on the base. This is the space for the stairs. Take three identical boards marked "65x10" from the bag containing the roof parts and two serrated pieces.
     
  2. Attach one serrated part to the base and the other to the other edge, glue the three boards together as shown in the picture below.

8. Pour the Foundation Floor

Take the largest bucket containing foundation mortar intended for your foundation. 
 

Place 4 to 7 bricks and place reinforcement bars (wire mesh) on top of them to strengthen the foundation.
 

Pour 200 ml of water into a bucket with foundation mortar and stir until the mixture is smooth and no dry particles remain. Use a metal spoon or fork (don't worry, it will wash off easily).
 

9. Level the Foundation

Pour the mixture onto the base, pressing gently and smoothing with a larger trowel. Add the mixture to the hardened stair formwork, pressing gently so that the cement fills all the gaps.
 

Use a trowel to level the foundation as much as possible, form steps so that the cement is level with the top of the wooden boards.

👉 Leave the foundation to dry for ~12 hours

DAY 2: Walls & Plaster

10. Build Walls - Layer 4

Take the bag with 80g of the mortar. Mix one of the three bags with 20ml of water to make the previous foundation.

Layer 4: The stairs lead to the porch, so no bricks will be laid there. Now you will begin to form a rectangle. Leave space for the door, you will use one half-brick for this purpose in this layer.

Keep stacking bricks, remembering to stagger them.
 

11. Build Walls - Layer 5

Place a half-brick on the right side near the gap. Take the door and place it in the opening to see if it fits.

If it doesn't fit, try to carefully move the structure so the door fits.

12. Build Walls - Layer 6

Leave gaps for windows. In total, you have five windows. One larger window will be above the stairs, another on the left and another on the right side of the house. A smaller window will be on the right side of the door. The door and the smaller window are one and a half bricks wide, while the large windows are two bricks wide.

Their locations are marked in grey in the picture and cannot be filled in until you have finished laying nine layers. Don't forget to check after laying each layer whether the windows fit by adding them and then removing them again.
 

Also, be sure to use half-bricks from this layer to the ninth so that the bricks will always be staggered. On the right side of the wall from the door, use one full brick, then two half-bricks in the next layer, then another full brick, and so on. In each layer, half-bricks will need to be used for each window.
 

13. Build Walls - Layer 7

Place the bricks exactly as shown in the picture.

14. Build Walls - Layer 8

Place the bricks exactly as shown in the picture.

15. Build Walls - Layer 9

Place the bricks exactly as shown in the picture.

16. Build Walls - Layer 10

After laying the last ninth layer, place the windows and doors in their designated places, then take the longer bricks (transoms) from a separate bag. There are three longer ones and two shorter ones in total.

All longer bricks should be placed above the larger windows, and one smaller one above the door, with another smaller one to its right.

Secure this layer with the others, but do not secure the windows with concrete, just insert them to maintain the correct distance so that they can be fitted later.
Keep in mind that the windows are not square.

17. Build Walls - Layer 11

The last layer - keep stacking bricks, remembering to stagger them.

After finishing the 11th layer leave the house for at least 30 minutes for mortar to dry.

18. Preparing plaster

Mix the plaster in the plastic container with 150 ml of water.
 

Stir until it becomes a thick, spreadable paste without lumps.

19. Plaster the House

Remove the wooden boards from the stairs and apply plaster evenly over the brick walls with the same larger spatula that you used to prepare the base for walls, and also use a modeling spatula for stairs and other parts that require precision.

Try to smooth out the plaster, applying several layers that should be about 2 - 3 mm thick. Don't worry if you can't get a perfect finish - you can sand down any unevenness once the plaster has dried. 

Also, plaster the interior walls of the house. All the plaster in the container will be sufficient for both the exterior and interior. Also coat the insides of all the windows and the top of the last layer.

👉 Let the plaster dry fully (8-12 hours).

DAY 3: Roof, Painting & Final Touches

20. Sand the Walls

Lightly sand the walls and edges using yellow fine-grit sandpaper until they are as smooth as possible.
 

Test-fit the windows and doors to ensure they fit securely.
 

If they don’t fit properly, continue sanding until they can be slightly pushed inside, but do not oversand it, because then windows and doors won’t stay in place. Also, don’t push too hard because it can break the upper wall.
 

21. Sort wooden boards:

  • 20 units “135x12.5”;
  • 6 units “125x7”;
  • 2 units “175x7”;
  • 2 units “175x10”;
  • 2 units “119x10”;
  • 4 units of boards with three square notches in each of them;
  • 2 triangles made up of 6 boards of different lengths.

22. Glue Planks Together

Place the boards on the table to make the process
easier. Glue planks together to form the roof frame.
Take two boards with three square notches in each of
them. Glue the parts of the notch that are closer to
the notch location together, you should end up with a
wider triangle, not a narrower one. Use only a small
drop of glue.

Do exactly the same with the other two boards.

23. Form a Triangle Frame

Take one board marked “175x10” and place it on the bottom part of the triangle. The bottom corners of this board in both directions must align directly with the bottom parts of the roof frame as shown in the picture below. The top corners of the “175x10” board must not be aligned with the top edges of the roof frame. 

 

Do exactly the same with another two glued parts with notches.

Always use just a drop or few of glue, the whole tube should be enough for the whole roof.

24. Fill the Triangle

Take the next five pieces with cut corners - all these pieces form a triangle. Glue them together from the longest to the shortest piece.
Glue them one by one to the frame from the bottom to the top.

25. Form a Square

Take two “119x10” boards. Use them to form a square by adding their edges to the sides of the “175x10”. Prop one triangle upright for stability or ask someone to help you. The distance between the triangles is important because it provides stability for placing other boards in the notches. Glue “119x10” boards to the sides as shown in the picture.

26. Place Boards in Notches

Take 6 boards measuring “125x7” and the triangular
frame. Start from the bottom notches of the triangular
frame, then move to the top part, and finish with the
middle. Apply a drop of glue to the notches of the
frame and place the boards there.
 

Keep in mind to turn the burned numbers toward the
inside of the roof so that they are not visible when
painting.

27. Attach Base Board

Take one 175x7 board, glue its sides and attach it between the 119x10 boards as a base as shown in the plan.

Do the same with the other board on the opposite side. 

28. Complete the Roof

The final step is to take the “135x12.5” boards, 10 boards for each side of the roof, for a total of 20.

Start gluing from the side, with the board completely covering the edge of the roof, but not sticking out.

Keep in mind to turn the burned numbers toward the inside of the roof so that they are not visible when painting. 

29. Painting

The included paints are carefully chosen so you can mix and create any color you can imagine.


Some examples:
Yellow + Red = Orange

Yellow + Blue = Green

Red + Blue = Purple

You can also add white or black to adjust the shades and tones - this way, you’ll be able to achieve virtually any color you want.

 

Express your creativity: add patterns, experiment with different wall colors, or customize the house interior to make it truly unique and personal.


If some paint is left, apply the second coat.
 

30. Final Touches

Once the paint is completely dry, put the windows and doors in place.

Attach the chimney to the roof with glue.

Congratulations 🎉 — your miniature concrete house is complete!

Troubleshooting guide

Brick columns near the door are unstable

This can happen because the columns are quite thin. Try applying a thin layer of brick mortar to the sides of the column for extra support.

 

Walls fell down

1. Remove the old brick mortar from the bricks and the remaining wall.

2. Apply a fresh layer of brick mortar to match the heights and improve surface adhesion.

3. Let it dry completely before continuing.

 

Ran out of glue
If you measure the right amount, the provided glue should be sufficient. If you still run out, use any strong adhesive you have at home — gel-type power glue works best.
 

Ran out of paint
Two small buckets should be enough for the exterior walls, one for the interior, and one for the roof.

 

Doors or windows don’t fit
If they don’t fit properly, continue sanding until they can be slightly pushed inside, but do not oversand, as this will cause windows and doors to lose their proper fit. Don’t push too hard because it can break the upper wall.

Have any other problems? Just write to us! Will be more than happy to help you to finish your mini house.

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